Wonderful city. Largest international tourist destination in Brazil, Latin America and the entire Southern Hemisphere. One of the main economic and cultural centers of the country. Part of the city is considered cultural heritage of humanity by UNESCO. Within the metropolitan region of Rio de Janeiro, life expectancy can differ by 22 years, depending on the city and skin color. The racial issue is also decisive in police actions: in 2019, 32% of violent deaths in the Metropolitan Region of Rio were caused by state agents. Among these victims, 79% were black. These are data from the Inequality Map, produced by Casa Fluminense. Its grandeur hallucinates. Their contrasts scream desperately. What does this river have that causes in us a mixture of love, hate, desire and repulsion? What makes this microcosm a synthesis, perhaps faithful, often bitter and unhappy, of these many “Brazils”?